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Nội dung text Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear p268.pdf


Table of Contents Title Page Copyright Acknowledgements Introduction Design and pattern cutting for menswear Tools and equipment for constructing patterns Aliquot parts Glossary Chapter 1: The basic principles - sizing - using the blocks Metric sizing and size charts Standard Body Measurements Small Medium Large Xlarge XXLarge sizes Body measurement chart for Small Medium Large Xlarge sizes (8cm increments) Using block patterns Seam allowances Pattern instructions Part One: ‘Flat’ Cutting Chapter 2: The ‘flat’ blocks – woven and jersey fabrics The ‘flat’ trouser blocks The ‘flat’ shirt and overgarment blocks The tee shirt and overgarment jersey blocks The ‘flat’ kimono block (woven or jersey fabrics)
Chapter 3: Leisurewear, weatherwear and sportswear Leisurewear and weatherwear (woven fabrics) Leisurewear and sportswear (jersey fabrics) Casual trousers (woven and jersey fabrics) The basic jeans blocks Chapter 4: Workwear Chapter 5: Basic nightwear The pyjama block Part Two: Standard Pattern Cutting Processes Chapter 6: Constructing sleeves Sleeves – ‘flat’ cutting Sleeves – ‘flat’ or ‘form’ cutting Sleeves – ‘form’ cutting Chapter 7: Constructing openings and collars Front openings Collars – basic principles Standing Collars Collars cut in one with the garment Collars and revers Flat collars Part Three: ‘Form’ Cutting - Classic and Casual Menswear Chapter 8: Classic suit jackets The classic suit jacket block The classic easy fitting suit jacket block
The suit two-piece sleeve block To complete suit jacket patterns Lining the suit jackets The classic waistcoat block Chapter 9: Classic and casual trousers The classic trouser block Waistbands Chapter 10: Classic and casual shirts The classic shirt block The tailored shirt block The casual shirt block Chapter 11: Classic and casual overgarments Classic and casual overgarment blocks Adaptations of the blocks Part Four: Sizing and Fit Chapter 12: Basic grading techniques Pattern grading Grading the ‘form' blocks Grading the ‘flat' blocks Chapter 13: Drafting and adapting the blocks for individual figures Drafting and adapting the blocks for individual figures Taking body measurements Fitting problems – trousers Fitting problems – coats, jackets and shirts

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